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HUMBOILBT'S 
STATISTICAL ESSAY 

ON 

NEW SPAIN, 

ABRIDGED. 






4 



BMbkc tmlriio'WTj 



AN 



ABRIDGEMENT 

OF 

Humboldt's 

STATISTICAL, ESSAY 

ON 

NEW SPAIN, 

BEING 

A GEOGRAPHICAL, PHILOSOPHICAL AND POLITICAL 
'^ ACCOUNT OF THE 

ilttttsliom Of Mtxito, 

t 
OR THE 

VICE-ROYALTY OF MEXICO, 

AND THE 

INTERNAL PROVINCES, 

SUBJECT TO THE COMMANDANT OR GOVERNOR GENERAL 
RESIDING AT CHIHUAHUA. 



BY A CITIZEN OF MARYLAND^ 



BALTIMORE— PRINTED BY WANE AND O'REILLY. 
1813. 



\r.\\ 



<(* 



IPJREFACE. 

THE interest which the revolutions now taking place 
in the vice-royalty of Mexico, and the provinces under the 
command of the captain general of the internal provinces, 
comprising the kingdom (so called) of New Spain, excites 
in the breasts of the American people, from its contiguity to 
the U, States, cannot but render a geographical knowledge 
of that vice-royalty and captaincy-general highly useful and 
necessary to the American reader ; and the more so, because 
the physical, geographical and statistical state of New Spain 
is very imperfectly and inaccuratelj' described by our Eng- 
lish geographers and gazetteers, and partly not described at 
all. By throwing off the trammels of its European thral- 
dom, New Spain becomes to Americans of much higher con- 
sideration than formerly, particularly in a commercial point 
of view. The trade of a people comprising a population of 
six or seven ^millions, hitherto forbidden, cannot be viewed 
with common indifference. 

The enumeration given in Humboldt's statistical essay, is 
from an actual census taken in 1803, and deposited in the 
archives of the vice-royalty in the city of Mexico, to which 
he had free access, and to every other written or printed 
document there which could throw light upon the geogra- 
phy and physical history of that country. The state of tran- 
quillity which has reigned therein since that period until the 
breaking out of the present struggles, will justify a concln 
sion that its present population at least equals that of the V. 
States. It also appears that Humboldt, in his astronomical 
calculations in ascertaining the latitude and longitude of 
places, has been assisted and supported by the ablest Mexi^ 
can and other astronomers and Spanish navigators — The 
light which he has thrown on that country bv his researches 



vi 

in its natural history, the height of its lofty summits, of its 
elevaied plains, its antiquities, &c. has rendered his work 
highly celebrated. The large sale of the European editions 
in the different languages in which it has appeared, is a high 
proof of the celebrity of its author, who is a German by 
birth, of independent fortune, known personally to many of 
the learned in the U. States, He travelled for the acquisi- 
tion of knowledge, and his writings are the result of travel, 
labor and research, and not the garret production of one who 
writes for bread. — But one edition of his statistical essay on 
New Spain, translated into English, has been published in 
the U. States, and without maps, whose high price (7 dolls.) 
forbids its being in the hands of every reader. To do away 
this inconvenience, and at the same time eradicate the false 
ideas to which the errors of Morse and other geographers 
give birth, an Abridgement has been made, which is now 
offered to the public. The latitudes, longitudes, heights of 
elevated plains and summits, cities, populations, mines, cu- 
riosities, antiquities, &c. are minutely attended toj and 
should this first essay or abridgement pass the ordeal of cri- 
ticism with but common censure, and its object, the diffu- 
sion of knowledge, be consummated, the grateful sensa- 
tion of having thrown in his mite to the common stock, will 
a'nimate the bosom of 

THE EPITOMIST. 
Baltimore, September 30th, 1813. 



COMPENDIUM 

OF 



NMW BFAI^^3, OR MEXICO. 

TAKEN FROM THE 

COUNT DE HUMBOLDT. 



THE last political arrangement of the 
kingdom of New Spain by the court of Madrid, was 
into intendancies, of which our English geogra- 
phers and gazetteers have taken no notice. Alex- 
ander Count de Humboldt, a German who has pe- 
netrated and travelled through its various parts, had 
access to the necessary Spanish documents, writ- 
ten and printed both in Mexico other places, and 
on his return, at Madrid; and from a variety of 
astronomical observations and calculations, taken 
and made by himself and others, has been enabled 
to give a more correct account of New Spain than 
any other traveller, both in a geographical, physi- 
cal and political point of view. The whole of New 
Spain is calculated to contain 1 18,478 square leagues, 
with a population, according to a data given in 1803, 
partly by actual enumeration, and partly by com- 
parative calculation, of 5,837,100, averaging 49 
inhabitants to a square league. It, however, has 
no prescribed limits to the north and east ; hence 
its real extent is conjectural, as the government of 
the U. States do not acknowledge the claim of 
Spain to its north eastern boundary ; and on the 
north, the country has been but very little explor- 
ed, and with no European settlements therein. 



C 8 ] 

New Spain at present is in two general divisions, 
subject to two different officers, sent by the Spanish 
government — The one subject to the Viceroy of 
Mexico, contains 59,103 square leagues, and a po- 
pulation of 5,479,095 souls- It comprises the in- 
tendancies of Mexico, Puebla, Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, 
Marida, Valladolid, Guadalaxara, Zacatecas, Guan- 
axuato, San Luis Potosi (Cohahuila and Texas 
excepted) — To these are added the provinces of 
Old and New California : 

The other to the commandant general of the in- 
ternal provinces, comprising the two intendancies 
of Durango and Sonora, the provinces of New 
Mexico, Cohahuila and Texas, containing 59,375 
inhabitants. 

New Spain again comprehends Mexico proper, 
or the kingdom of Mexico, whose extent in square 
leagues is 51,280, and population 5,413,900, aver- 
aging 105 inhabitants to the square league ; and 
the eastern and western internal provinces, com- 
prising 59,375 square leagues, and a population of 
357,200, averaging six inhabitants to the square 
league. 

INTENDANCY OF MEXICO, 

Extends from 16 deg. 34 m. to 21 deg. 57 m. N- 
latitude, bounded on the N. by the intendancy of 
San Luis Potosi ; on the west by those of Guanax- 
uato and Valladolid ; on the east by Vera Cruz and 
La Puebla ; and on the south, for a length of 82 
leagues by the Pacific ocean. Its greatest length 
is 136 leagues, and breadth 92: its extent of sur- 
face is 5,927 square leagues, & population 1,51 1,800, 
averaging, 255 inhabitants to a square league. 

Two thirds of this intendancy is mountainous, in 
which are immense plains from 6561 to 7545 feet 
above the level of the ocean, some of which are 



C 3 3 

almost uninterrupted, fifty leagues in length, and 
from eight to ten in breadth. The Neva de To- 
luca-is an old volcanic mountain, situated in a plain, 
8857 feet high, and is only uncovered of snow 
in the rainy months of September and October ; its 
highest summit, the Pico del Fraile, is 15,156 feet 
in height. 

The valley of Mexico, or Tenochtitian, is of an 
oval form, surrounded by the Cordillera or Anhuac 
mountains^ 18 1-3 leagues in length, and 12 1-2 
in breadth. Its circumference is 67 leagues, giv- 
ing a superficies of 244 1-2, 22 of vvrhich only are 
covered by the lakes. From the city of Mexico 
are s^een the volcanoes of La Puebla, called Popo- 
catepetl and Itztacihuatl, which bound the valley 
to the south. 

The city of Mexico stands on the same ground 
as it did at the time of the conquest of Montezuma 
by Cortez. The waters, however, of lake Tez- 
cuco have so far diminished, that instead of the 
city being seated on an island, and connected to the 
main by three great cause-ways, it is distant from 
lake Tezcuco 14,763 feet (nearly 2 1-3 miles) and 
from lake Chalco, 29,527 feet (5 miles 418 yards.) 

In Montezuma and Cortez's time, these two lakes 
were united by a narrow strait, but the waters have 
continually diminished by means of the forests 
which promote exsiccation, the desague or cut: 
of Martinez, 14 miles and 871 2-3 yards long 
through the mountain, and canals constructed to 
carry ofF the waters of the river Guautitlan, by 
which to guard against inundation from heavy- 
rains which sometimes menace the capital with 
destruction. 

The population of the city of Mexico is given at 

B 



[10] 

137,000, of which 2,500 are white Europeans, 
65,000 white Creoles, 33,000 indigenous (copper- 
coloured, or Indians) — 25,500 Mestizoes, mixture 
of whites and Indians, and 10,000 Mulattoes, which 
make 67,500 whites and 69,500 coloured people, of 
every description. There are in the capital, twenty- 
three male convents, nearly 1200 persons, of whom 
580 are priests and choristers ; and fifteen female 
convents, in which are about 2100 individuals, of 
whom nearly 900 are professed religieuses. The 
archbishop of Mexico has an annual revenue of 
three millions livres (81,866 2-3 dollars-) 

Mexico is the largest and most populous city in 
the New World, and forms a great square of 9021 
feet each side (a fraction more than a mile and three 
quarters.) Its market is well supplied with eat- 
ables, particularly fruits and roots of every sort, 
furnished from the adjacent country, and from the 
chinampas or floating gardens, which are numerous 
in the lakes, and present a curious but pleasing 
spectacle to the eye of a stranger. The consump- 
tion of the capital in 1791, by a table drawn up by 
public authority, wa5 16,300 beeves, 450 calves, 
288,923 sheep, 50,676 hogs, 24,000 kids and rab- 
bits, 1,255,240 fowls, 125,000 ducks, 205,000 tur- 
kies, 65,300 pigeons, 140,000 partridges, 118,224 
cargas of wheat, of three fanegas, 40,216 cargas 
of barley (do.) 130 cargas of flour, of 12 arrobas 
each, 294,760 cargas of pulque, 4,507 barrels of 
wine and vinegar, of 4 1-2 arrobas. 

The next city of note in this intendancy is Que- 
retaro, which contains a population of 35,000, of 
which there are 11,600 Indians, 8 5 secular eccle- 
siastics, 181 monks, and 143 nuns. The consump- 
tion of this city in 1793, was 13,618 cargas of 



[ 11 ] 

wheat flour, 69,445 fanegas of maize, 656 cargas 
of chile (capsicum), 1770 barrels of brandy, 1682 
beeves, 14,949 sheep, and 8869 hogs. It is in N. 
lat. 20 deg. 36 m. 39 s. long. W. from Paris 102 
deg. 30 m. 30 s. and is famous for its beautiful edi- 
fices, its aqueduct and cotton cloths. 

Tezcuco is on the east side of the lake of the 
same name, east /rom Mexico, in lat. N. 19 deg. SO 
m. 40, and long. 101, 11m. 15. It contains 5000 
inhabitants, and carries on considerable manufac- 
tures of cotton. 

Acapulco is a miserable city, situated on the Pa- 
cific ocean, in N. lat. 16 deg. 50 m. 29 s. and 102 
deg. 6 m. W. long, in a very unhealthy situation, 
and contains but 4000 inhabitants. It is the port 
through which is carried on all the trade of the 
Mexican capital and other towns with Manilla, the 
other Phillipine and Spanish settlements in the In- 
dian ocean. At the time of the arrival of the Ma- 
nilla galeons, its population extends to 9000. They 
are chiefly people of colour. 

These are the only cities or towns in this iriten- 
dancy of which we have given us the population. 
The others of note are, Cuyoacan, where is a con- 
vent of nuns; Tacubaya, west from the capital, 
where the archbishop has his palace and a beauti- 
ful olive plantation ; Tacuba, Cuernavacca, Chil- 
pansingo, which is surrounded by fertile fields of 
wheat ; Tasco, where is a parish church built by 
Laborde, a Frenchman, from his own purse, at 
two millions of francs ; Zacatula, a small seaport 
on the Pacific ocean ; Lerma, Toluca, Pachuca, 
Cardereita, and San Juan del Rio. 

The most important mines are La Veta Biscaina 




[ 12 ] 

de Real del Monte, near Pgchuca ; Zimapan, el 
Doctor, and Tehulilotepec, near Tasco. 

The Intendancy of La Peubla extends from 16 
deg. 57 m. to 20 deg. 40 m. N- latitude; bounded 
on the N. E. by the intendancy of Vera Cruz, on 
the E. by that of Oaxaca, on the S. by the ocean, 
or Mexican gulf, and on the W. by the intendancy 
of Mexico. It is 118 leagues loiig and 50 broad, 
has a superficies of 2,696 square leagues, and a 
population of 113,300, giving 301 inhab,itants to 
the square league. 

The plain of this intendancy, like the other 
table lands of Mexico, is eminently fertile in wheat 
and maize, and is from 5,905 to 6,561 feet above the 
ocean's level. It is traversed by the high Cordil- 
leras of Anahuac. Here is the volcano of Popo- 
catepetl, continually burning, the most elevated 
mountain of all New Spain — It is 17,716 feet above 
the sea, and is 1968 feet higher than the most ele- 
vated summit in the old world ; and from the Isth- 
mus of Panama to Behring's Straits, Mont St. Elie 
is the only mountain higher than it. — :In this inten- 
dancy are numerous relics of Tlascallan antiquity. 
The Teocalli of Cholula bears a strong resem- 
blance to the pyramids of Egypt, as do all the Teo- 
callis seen in Mexico. That of Cholula has a base 
of 1355 feet in its present state, built of brick, 
while its height is but 172. That of Teotihuacan 
is 645 feet base, and 171 high. The cheops in 
Egypt have a base of 728 feet, and 448 in height ; 
of Chephren, 655 feet base, height 398; of My- 
cerinus, 280 base, 162 high, built of stone ; and 
one near Sacknara, built of brick, 210 feet base, 
and 150 feet high. These furnish to the enquirer 
nfter truth, strong incentives for further research to 



C 13 J 

discover whence sprang the aborigines of the west- 
ern continent. 

There is a famous cypress tree near the village 
of Atlixa, which, by its great size, attracts the 
travellers' attention. It is 76 feet in circumference, 
is hollow, wherein by admeasurement it gives a di- 
ameter of 16 feet. 

The progress of industry and prosperity in this 
intendancy is very slow, because that four-fifths 
are a mort-main proprietaryship, in the hands of 
monks, chapters, corporations and hospitals. 

It comprises six cities, 133 parishes, 607 villages, 
425 farms, 886 solitary houses, and 33 convents, 
two-thirds of which are for monks. 

The district of Tlascalla is governed by Indian 
officers, under an Indian governor, who is again 
immediately subject to the Spanish intendant. 

The district of Cholula contains 42 villages and 
45 farms. Cholula, Tlascalla and Huetxoctingo in 
this intendancy, are the three Indian republics 
which for centuries resisted the Spanish yoke. 

There are considerable salt works near Chila, 
Xicotlan, Ocotlan and Zapotitlan. 

The aborigines speak three distinct languages, 
the Mexican, Totonac and Tlaplanec. 

La Puebla de los Angeles is the capital, and con- 
tains 67,800 inhabitants. It is the fourth largest 
city in the Spanish American dominions, and was 
founded by Europeans in the beginning of the 1 th 
century. Its consumption in 1802 amounted to 
52,951 cargas (of 3001b. each) of wheat flour, and 
36,000 cargas of maize ; the other articles of con- 
sumption are not detailed. It is in N. lat. 19 deg. 
00, 15. long. W. 100 deg. 22, 45. 

Tlascalla, the capital of the ancient Indian re- 



i; 14 ] 

public I'lascallaii, is reduced to a population of 
about 3,400, of which there are scarcely 9oo In- 
pians of entire original extraction. It is in N. lat. 
19 deg. 15, 00. and W. long, loo deg. 2o, oo. 

Cholula has a population of l6,ooo. It is situ- 
ated in N. lat. 19 deg. 2, 40. and in long. W. from 
Paris, lol deg. 19, 3o. on a fine fertile plain, about 
l3 miles to the east of La Puebla, on the road to 
Mexico- Here is found the great Teocalli, or house 
of God for Mexican worship, which bears a great 
resemblance to the pyramids of Egypt. 

The other towns of note, but whose population 
is not given, are Atlixco, Tehuacan de los Grena- 
das, Tepeaca, or Tepeyacac, and Huajocingo, or 
Huexotzinco, formerly the capital of a small Indian 
republic at enmity with those of Cholula and Tlas- 
calla. -1 -v 

The mines in this intendancy are very little 

worked those of Yxtacmatlin, Temeztla and 

Alatlauquitepic, in the partido of San Juan de los 
Llanos ; of La Canada, near Tetela de Xonotla ; 
and of San Miguel Tenango, near Zacatlan, are 
almost abandoned. 

Intendancy of Guanaxuato has a superficies of 
911 square leagues, with a population of 5 17,ooo, 
averaging 586 inhabitants to the square league, is 
the most populous of all New Spain, and is situated 
wholly on the ridge of the Cordillera of Anahuac 
Its length is 52 leagues and breadth 42. The mines 
in this intendancy are more productive of their me- 
tals than any in the old or new world. It is as cele- 
brated for its attention to agriculture as to mining. 
In this intendancy are the hot wells of San Jose de 
Comangillas, which issue from a balsatic opening, 



^ / i: 15 ] 

tie temperature of whose waters is 2o5 deg. 3. of 
Farenheit's thermometer. 

Guanaxuato comprises three cities, (Guanaxuato, 
Celayo and Salvatierra) four towns (San Miguel el 
Grande, X.eon, San FeHpe and Salamanca) 37 vil- 
lages, Z^ parishes and 448 farms. Here were 
reckoned 225 seculars, 14o monks and 3o nuns. 

Guanaxuato, or Sta Fe' de Gonnajoato, the ca- 
pital city, was begun by the Spaniards in 1554, was 
incorporated as a town in 1619, and as a city in 
1741. In the city are 41,ooo inhabitants, and in 
the contiguous buildings at the rich mines surround- 
ing the city, viz. at Marfil, Sta Anna, Sta Rosa, Va- 
lenciana, Rayas and Millado, 29,6oo, giving a po- 
pulation of 7o,6oo, of whom 4,5oo are Indians- 
Celaya is celebrated for its costly edifices, the 
church of the Carmelites in particular, which is 
adorned with Corinthian and Ionic columns. 

The Villa de Leon stands in a plain, which is 
eminently fertile in wheat, barley and maize, and 
other grain. 

San Miguel el Grande is celebrated for its cotton 
manufactories and the industry of its inhabitants. 

Intendancy of Falladolid has a surface of 3446 
square leagues, containing a population of 376,4oo 
inhabitants, averaging lo9 to a square league. It 
is bounded on the north by the Rio de Lerma, alias 
Rio Grande de Santiago, which separates it from 
Guanaxuato; on the west by that of Guadalaxara; 
and on the SSW. by the Pacific Ocean. It is 78 
leagues long and 38 broad, and runs in a direction 
from NNE. to SSW. on the western declivity of the 
Anahuac mountain, interspersed with fine vallies 
and good climate : near the sea coast, however, the 
inhabhants are subject to intermittent and putrid 
fevers. 



[ 16] 

Tlie most elevated summit in this intendancy, it 
the Pic de Tancitara, to the east of Tuspan, esti- 
mated higher than the volcano of Colima, and' is 
frequently covered with snow. To the east of this 
Pic is the volcano of Jorullo, Xorullo or Juruyo, 
which broke out first on the 29th Sept. }759. This 
volcano is so remarkable, that the reader will be 
amply compensated for his trouble in reading the 
minute detail of this extraordinary and singular 
convulsion of nature. This was formerly a place 
belonging to a plantation of one Jorulla, from whom. 
it takes its name, from 246o to 2624 feet above the^ 
level of the sea. This produced a beautiful vege- 
tation until the rupture, particularly of sugar and 
indigo. It was between two brooks, called Cui- 
tambo and San Pedro. In June, 1759, a rumbling 
subterraneous noise was heard, accompanied with 
frequent earthquakes for 5o or 6o days in succes- 
sion, to the great consternation of the people. — 
During the month of September, every thing ap- 
peared quiet until the night of the 28th and 29th, 
when the noise recommenced. The Indians fled 
to the mountains of Aguascaro. A tract of ground 
three or four miles square, called the Malpays, 
rose up in the shape of a bladder, which at its 
edges, rose above the old plains, to 39 feet, increas- 
ing in the centre to 524. Its flames were seen to 
issue from an extent of more than half a square 
league, throwing up burning rocks to a prodigious 
height. Through thick clouds of ashes, illumin- 
ated by the volcanic fire, the softened surface of 
the earth was seen to swell like an agitated sea — 
The rivulets Cuitamba and San Pedro were thrown 
into the burning chasms, contributing thereby to 
invigorate the flames which were seen at the city of 



tin 

Pas'cuarb, on a plain, at an elevation of 4592 feet 
above the plains of JoruUo. Thousands of small 
cones, called ovens, from 6.5 to 9.8 feet in heighi:, 
issued forth from the Malpays, from each of which 
A thick vapor ascends, and in many of them is heard 
a subterraneous noise, which indicates the proximi- 
ty of a fluid in ebullition; In the midst of the ovens 
six large masses sprang up from a chasm, in a di- 
rection from NNE. to SSW. each 202 feet French, 
above the leyel of the old plains. The most ele- 
vated of these enormous masses is called the Vol- 
cano of Jorullo, and is continually burning, hav 
ing thrown up an immense quantity of lava and 
primitive rock. The great eruptions of the central 
volcano continued until 1760, when they gradually 
became less frequent in the succeeding years. All 
the villages at fir^t were abandoned to the distance 
of six or seven leagues. The roofs of the houses 
in Queretaro, a distance of 48 leagues on a straight 
line, were covered with ashes. The volcanic fire 
is now far less violent, and vegetation begins to 
cover the Malpays and the great volcano. The ri- 
vulets Cuitamba and San Pedro disappeared, and 
6561 feet westward, two others are seen bursting 
through an argillaceous vault of the hornitoSy or 
ovens, which are supposed to be the same, in cori'* 
sequence of great masses of water being heard run» 
ning in several parts of the Malpays in a direction 
from east to west. 

In this intendancy are three cities (Valladolid, 
Tzintzontzan, and Pascuaro,) three towns (Citaqiia- 
ro, Zamoa, and Charoj— 263 villages; 2o5 pa:- 
rishes, and 326 farms. 

Valladolid, the capital, is a bishop's See, in N. 
lat, 19 4eg. 42. and lo3 deg, 12, 15. W. long^ from 

C 



C 18 ] 

Paris, containing 1 8,000 inhabitants, on a plain of 
6396 feet above the level of the sea. The aque- 
duct which supplies the town with water, was con- 
structed by a late bishop, at the cxpence of nearly 
8o,5oo dollars. 

Pascuaro, in 19 deg. 25. and lo3 deg. 4o. W. 
from Paris, is situated on the banks of a lake of 
the same name, and is 7217 feet above the level of 
the ocean. It contains 6000 inhabitants. — Tzint- 
zontzan, or Huitlzalla, a few miles to the north west 
of Pascuaro, contains 25oo persons, i 

The mines of Zitaquaro, Anganquego, Tlapuxa- 
hua, the Real del Oro, and Ynguaran, are in this 
intendandancy. 

Intendancy of Guadulaxara has a surface of 9612 
square leagues, with a population of 6 3o,5oo in- 
habitants, averaging 66 to a square league. It is 
bounded on the north by the intendancies of So- 
nora and Durango ; on the east, by those of Zaca- 
tecas and Guanaxuato ; on the south by that of Val- 
ladolid ; and on the west, by the Pacific ocean, be- 
ing 118 leagues in its greatest length, and loo in 
its greatest breadth. The table land and declivities 
of this intendancy are extremely healthy; the 
maritime region quite otherwise. Here is the 
volcano of Colima, near the small town of the same 
name, from which it is seen in full grandeur. It is 
the western of all the Mexican volcanos, and its 
elevation is computed at about lo,898 feet, being 
very seldom covered with snow. 

The value of the agricultural produce of this in- 
tendancy in 18o2, amounted to 2,599,ooo piastres 
or dollars, in which were computed 1, 6 5 7, 000 fanC' 
gas of maize; 43,ooo cargas of wheat; 17,ooo 
fercios of cotton ; and 2o,ooo lbs. of cochineah — 



C 19 3 

manufacturing products were rated at 3,3o2,2oO 
piastres or dollars. 

This intendancy contains two cities, six towns, 
and 322 villages. Its most celebrated mines are 
those of Bolanos, Asientes de Ibarra, Hostiotipa- 
quillo, Copala, and Guichilila, near Tepic. Its 
most remarkable towns are, 

Guadalaxara, the capital, on the banks of the 
Rio de Santiago, in N. lat. 29 deg. 9. W. long. lo5 
deg. 22, 3o. contains l6,5oo inhabitants. It is the 
residence of the intcndant of the bishop, and of 
the high couit of justice (audicencia.; 

San Bias, a small port on the Pacific ocean, at 
the mouth of the Santiago, Compostilla, Aguas 
Calientes, Villa de Purification, Lagos, and Co^ 
lima. 

Intendancy of ZacatecaSy 85 leagues long and 51 
broad, with a surface of 2,3 55 square leagues, and 
a population of 1 5 3, 3 oo, averaging 6 5 to a squar© 
league, is bounded on the north by the intendancy 
of Durango ; on the east, by that of San Luis Po- 
tosi ; on the south, by that of Guadalaxara ; and 
on the west, by that of Guanaxuato. 

Zacatecas, the capital, is in 23 deg. N. lat. and 
103 deg. 55. W. long, and contains 33,ooo inhabit- 
ants. Next to Guanaxuato it is the most celebrated 
mining place of New Spain. 

Fresnillo, a town, on the road from Zacatecas 
to Durango. 

Sombrereti is the head town and residence of a 
deputacion de Mineria, or deputation of the Mines. 

There are besides the above, metallic seams near 
the Sierra de Pinos, Chalchigentic, San Miguel de 
Mezquitas, and MazapiL 

Intendancy of Oaxaco, delightful, healthy and 



fertile, has a surface of 444 square leagues, with 
a^population of 534,8oo, averaging 12€> inhabits 
ants to a square league, and is bounded on the north 
by the intendancy of Vera Cruz ; on the east, by 
the, kingdom of Guatimala ; on the west, by the 
intendancy of La Puebla ; and on the south, by the 
Pacific, ocean. The valley of Oaxaca gives the ti- 
tle of Marquis to the family of Cortez. Here is a 
vigorous vegetation throughout. The mountains 
of Mixteca and Zapoteca cross this intendancy — 
they are chiefly composed of granite and gneis. — 
There is an enormous cypress tree, 118 feet in 
circumference, at the village of Sta. Maria del Tule, 
which is much larger than that of Atlixo. It is, 
however, upon examination, declared to be three 
united trunks, not easily perceptible. The walls 
of the antient palace of Mitla are decorated with 
grecqucs, and labyrinths in Mosaic of small por- 
phyry stones, which may compare justly with many 
designs of Greece or Rome, to which they bear a. 
great analogy. This palace was said to be the re- 
sort of the Indian monarchs after a family calamity, 
the palace being called in the Mexican language, 
Leoba, or tomb, The palace, or rather tombs of 
Mitla, form three edifices, systematically placed in 
a very romantic situation. The principal edifice is 
in best preservation, and is nearly 131 feet long. 
There is a stair which descends through a pit to 
la subterraneous apartment of 88 feet by 26. It is 
covered with grecqiies similar to those which orna- 
nlent the exterior of the edifice. Six porphyry co- 
lumns are placed in a vast hall and support the ceil- 
ing. These are almost tlie only ones found in the 
new continent. They are without base or capitals,^ 
They haY^ but a simple contraction in.the upper 



f. ^- J 

part. Each shait is of amphibolous porphyry, and 
is 16 1-4 feet in height, more than a third of which 
is concealed by the accumulated rubbish of ages, 
the removal of which discovers them to have a 
height equal to six diameters. In the ruins of Mit- 
la curious paintings, representing warlike trophies 
and sacrifices, have b-een found. 

In this intendancy cochineal is cultivated.- — The 
property composing the marquisate in the valley of 
Oazaca, consists of 4 towns and 49 villages, with 
a population of 17,700 inhabitants. 

Oaxaca, or Guaxaca, the capital, is in N. lat. 15 
deg. 50. and W. long, from Paris 99 deg. 30. Its 
population by enumeration in 1792, was 24,000. 

Tehuantepec is a small port on the Pacific ocean, 
the navigation of which is impeded by a dangerous 
bar at the mouth of the harbor. 

San Antonio de los Cues, celebrated for the re- 
mains of antient Mexican fortifications, is a popu- 
lous town on the road from Orizaba to Oaxaca. 

The mines here worked with great care, are Vil- 
lalta, Zolagu, Yxtepexi and Totpmortla. 

Intendancy of Merida has a surface of 5977 
square leagues, with a population of 465,800 inha- 
bitants, averaging 81 to the square league. It 
comprehends the peninsula of Yucatan, and is sepa- 
rated from the intendancy of Vera Cruz by the Rio 
Baraderas ; on the south it is bounded by the king- 
dom of Guatimala — It is also bounded by the Eng- 
lish establishments, extending from the mouth of 
the Rio Hondo to the north of the bay of Hanover, 
opposite the island of Ubero. San Felipe de Ba- 
calar, a small fort, is the most southern point occu- 
pied by the Spaniards. To prevent the contraband 
trade, the populatigai ha« been removed to the west 



[22 j 

®f the mountains of Yucatan. For the same pur- 
pose, no settlements are allowed on the banks of 
the Bacalar and Rio Hondo. Hence, with the ex- 
ception of the military post of Salamanca, a vast 
extent of country remains uninhabited. The cele- 
brated Campeachy wood is cut in this province. 

The capital, Merida de Yucatan^ whose port is 
Si^al, is situated on an arid plain, ten leagues 
in the interior, N. lat. 20 deg. 45. W. long, from 
Paris 91 deg. 55. and has a population of 10,000 
inhabitants. 

Campeche is in lat. N. 15 deg. 50. 45. W. long. 
92 deg. 50. 45. on the Rio de San Francisco. The 
port is not secure, and has bad anchorage ground. 
Usual population 6000. 

Valladolid is a small town, the environs of which 
produces good cotton. 

Besides these, there are two considerable In- 
dian villages between Campeche and Merida, call- 
ed Xampolan and Equetchecan. 

Yucatan was never subject to the Aztec kings, 
although at its discovery it bore equal, if not su- 
perior, marks of civilization to Mexico. 

The exportation of wax from Yucatan is a very 
lucrative branch of its commerce. 

Intendancy of Vera Cruz, 210 leagues long and 
from 25 to 28 broad, has a surface of 4,141 square 
leagues, and a population of 156,000 souls, aver- 
aging 31 to a square league. It is bounded on the 
north by the colony of New Santander, on the east 
by the Gulf of Mexico and the district of Merida, 
on the south west by Oaxaca, and on the west by 
Puebla and Mexico. This intendancy produces al- 
most all the vegetable productions of the torrid and 
temperate zones, having in its descents from the 



[23 ] 

eastern. declivity of the cordillera of Anhuac, their 
varieties of temperature. The celebrated Pic d'Ori- 
zaba is in this intendancy, and serves as a beacon, 
for mariners on the coast. Cotton, sugar and to- 
bacco here are cultivated v/ith success — While on 
the high table land it enjoys all the salubrity of 
more northern climes, it is subjected on the sea 
shore to the pestilences of the torrid zone. Be- 
sides d'Orizaba, here is the summit called the Coffre 
de Perote, a guide for vessels entering Vera Cruz, 
and is 1312 feet higher than the Peak of Teneriffe. 

We have here also the small volcano of Tuxtla, 
about four leagues from the coast S. E. of Vera 
Cruz, whose last eruption was in 1793, and cover- 
ed the houses in Oaxaca, Peroti and Vera Cruz, 
with volcanic ashes. Peroti is 57 leagues in a 
straight line from Tuxtla, and yet there the vol- 
canic noises resembled heavy discharges of artillery. 

West from the Rio Tecolutla, about two leagues 
from the Indian village of Papantla, about 40 years 
ago only, was discovered by some hunters, the py- 
ramid or Teocalli of Papantla, which for centuries 
had been concealed from the Spaniards by the In- 
dians. It is in the midst of a thick forest, called 
Toyin. It is constructed of large porphyritical 
stones, in the seams of which, mortar is discern- 
ible. Its symmetry and the polish of its stones, 
and regularity of cut, render it peculiarly remark- 
able from the pyramids or Teocallis of Cholula and 
Teotihuacan. Its base is an exact square, each 
side 82 feet long — -its height is from 52 to 65 feet 
long; its height is from 52 to 6 5 feet^, and is com- 
posed of several stages, six of which are seen, and 
the seventh seems to be covered with vegetation, oi 
which, its sides are clothed. The ^-reat stair whi::k 




C 24 ] 

leads to the platform for human sacrifices, is 570 
steps, with a small stair on each side. The fa- 
cing of the stories is adorned with hieroglyphics, 
among which are seen carved serpents and croco- 
diles in relievo. Each story has a number of square 
niches, symmetrically distributed. The first has 
24, the second 20, the third 16, 8^c* comprising 
366, and 12 on the stair to the east, giving it th§ 
appearance of an Indian Calendar. 

Fera Cruz^ the capital, and the residence of the 
Intendant, is beautifully and regularly built. It is 
in 19 dt^. 11. 52. N. lat. 98 deg. 29. W. fromParis, 
with a population of 16,000 inhabitants, exclusive 
of soldiers and sailors. This is the port from which 
the trade of New Spain is carried on witH its West 
India possessions and the mother country. The 
harbor is not a safe one against the fury of the ele- 
ments, and its anchorage but indifferent. It, how- 
ever, is well fortified against every hostile attack. 
In addition to the regular fortifications which sur- 
round it, the fortress St. Juan de Ulua, on an island 
opposite, built at a very great expence, is a great 
auxiliary. This city was begun to be built in the 
16th century, after two others had been abandon- 
ed for insalubrity of climate, on the very spot 
where Cortez first landed in 1519. It is on an arid 
plain, where is no running water, on which the 
north winds, which prevail with impetuosity from 
October to April, have formed hills of moving sand, 
which tend to encrease the suffocating heats of sum- 
mer. Near the city are also marsh grounds, which 
tend to increase its unhealthiness. The better sort 
of people drink rain water, collected in cisterns, 
while the poorer drink water from a ditch, which 
'lat tjetter than its well water, got at th« 



^fepth of 9 and 10 feet. An attetnpt, at an enbr- 
mous expence, has been made, but failed, to bring; 
the waters of the river Xamapa through an aque- 
duct, of which about 3000 feet have been com- 
pleted, to Vera Cruz; The government, however, 
contents itself with the cisterns. To the bad water 
is ascribed the origin of many of the diseases which 
infest its inhabitants. 

Xalal)pa^ in 19 deg. 3D ra. 8 s. N. lat. and 99 deg. 
15 m. W. long, with a population of 13,000, is si- 
tuated at the foot of the mountain of Macultipec, 
on an elevation of 4264 feet above the level of the 
sea. From this is viewed the Pic d'Orizaba, the 
cofffre de Perote, the declivity of the Cordillera, 
the river Antigua, and the ocean. In summer the 
^ky is serene, in winter otVerwise; during the north 
winds at Vera Cruz, this place is envelopped in 
fbgs, so that for two or three days together the sun 
and stars are invisible. The rich merchants of 
Vera Cruz have generally here xhe.\x country houses. 
Here is an excellent school for drawing, where 
'J)oor children are taught gratis. 

Besides these, are the towns of Perote, to the 
north of which is the small fortress of San Carlos 
de Perote, of Cordoba, on the eastern declivity of 
the Pic d'Orizaba,- — (in the vicinity of these two 
towns all the tobacco used in New Spain is raised) — 
Orizaba, Tlacotlalpan, and the small towns of Vit- 
toria and Villa Hermosa. 

The minies of Zomelahuacan, near Jacalingo, 
are almost abandoned, and there are few or none 
others in the intendancy. 

Intendancy of San Luis Potosi has a surface com- 
puted at 27,821 square leagues, with a population 
«9f 334j900, giving 12 inhabitants to the square 

D 



[26 ] 

league. Its northern limits are undefined. The 
Apachi Indians frequently sally forth and attack 
the inhabitants of Cohahuila and New Biscay, and 
have never been thoroughly conquered by Spain. 
It comprehends the whole of the N. E. part of New 
Spain, in part of which scarcely the traces of ci- 
vilization or cultivation exist. According to the 
late regulations, the intendant of San Luis has un- 
der his government a greater district of territory 
than all European Spain, with an extent of coast 
extending 230 leagues. He governs in Mexico 
proper, the province of San Luis, in which are the 
mines of Charcas, Potosi, Ramos, and Catorce ; 
the new kingdom of Leon, New Santander, the 
provinces of Cohahuila and Texas, The whole of 
the eastern coast of New Spain, by the shoalness 
of its waters and bars, offers the greatest obstruc- 
tion to navigation. The shore from Santander, lat. 
21 deg. N. to Texas, 29 deg. N- presents a success 
sion of basins from four to five leagues broad, and 
from forty to fifty long, which are called salt water 
lakes ; some completely shut in by the land ; others 
communicating with the ocean by several channels. 
That part of this intendancy which joins Zacatecas, 
where are the mines, is cold and mountainous ; the 
rest, with the bishopric of Monterey, Cohahuila 
Santander and Texas, is a low region, covered with 
alluvian and secondary formations, possessing an 
unequal climate, too hot in summer and too cold in 
winter. In the dispute about territorial bounda- 
ries, the United States claim the whole province of 
of Texas, as having formerly been part of Louisi- 
ana, while tne Spanish intendant lays claim to the 
territory as far as the Rio Mexicana, to the east of 
the river Sabine. The road from New Orleans to 



[ 27 ] 

the city of Mexico, has been opened by some Lou- 
isianians, who went thither for the purchase of 
horses. It is 540 leagues in lengtii, and is very 
difficuh for travelling, on account of the want of 
water and habitations. It requires two and an half 
months to perform this journey. From Natchito- 
ches to the left bank of the Rio del Norte, the tra- 
veller must repose in open air. 

San Luis Potosi, the capital and residence of the 
intendant,' is situated 22 deg. N. 102 deg. 55. W. of 
on the eastarn declivity of the table land of Ana- 
huac or Mexico, and has a population of 12,000. 

New Santander, the capital of that province, is 
of little note. 

Charcas, or Sta Maria de Charcas, is a small 
town of considerable consequence, being the seat 
of a diputacion de Minas. 

Catorce is one of the richest mines in New Spain, 
the principal vein of which has been only opened 
since 1777. Its seams yield annually from above 
S 3,246,000 to above S 3,724,000. 

Monterey is the seat oi a bishop in the new king- 
dom of Leon. Linares is in the same, between 
Rio Tigre and Rio Bravo del Norte- 

Monclava, the capital of the province of Coha" 
huila, is a military post, and the residence of the 
governor. 

San Antonio de Bajar is the capital of Texas, be- 
tween the Rio des Nogales and the Rio San An- 
tonio. 

Intendancy of Durango^ or Biscay, with a sur- 
face of 16,873 square leagues, and a population of 
159,700 inhabitants, averaging 10 to a sq. league, 
is 232 leagues in length and very unequal in breadth, 
in some places about 58 leagues. It is bounded on 



[ 28 ] 

the south hy New Gallicia, with the intendancies 
of Zacatecas and Guadalaxara ; on the south east^ 
by a small part of the intendancy of San Luis Pq- 
tosi; on the west, by that of Sonora; and on the, 
north and on the east, for more than 200 leagues, 
by uncultivated lands, inhabited by warlike and in- 
dependent nations of Indians. The Bolson de Ma- 
pimi, the mountains of Chanato, and the Organos 
on the left of the Rio Grande del Norte, are pos- 
sessed by Acoclames, the Cocoyames, and Apaches 
Mescalores and Fardones, Farther west, in the 
wild ravines of Sierra de Acha, are found the Apa- 
ches Mimbrennos. The Cumanches and different 
tribes of Chichimecs, or Micos, by a continued 
state of hostility, compel the inhabitants of New 
Biscay to travel in large bodies and well armed, 
as the presidios or military posts are too distant for 
aid, except in their vicinity. 

The Apaches, of whom several hordes are at 
peace with the Spaniards of New Biscay, live in 
continual hostility with the Cumanches, the most 
formidable enemies of New Spain. They are very 
agile and good horsemen, and frequently descend 
from the mountains, where they live in ambuscade, 
and scour the plains, This has been produced by 
the exterminating warfare of the Spaniards. The 
inhabitants of the northern provinces of New Spaii> 
are generally reputed the most robust, active and 
intelligent of its population. 

This intendancy comprehends the northern ex- 
tremity of the great table land of Anahuac, which 
to the N. £. declines towards the banks of the Rio 
del Norte. The plains whereon stands the capital 
Ourango, are at an elevation of mor^ than 6561 
feet, which elevation towards Chihahvia being the 



[ 29 3 

central chain of the Sierra Madre, running near 
San Jose del Parral, in a direction N. N. W. towards 
the Sierra Verde and the Sierra de las GruUas. 

In New Biscay, or Durango, are one city (Du- 
rango. six towns (Chihahua, San Juan del Rio, 
Nombre de Dios, Pasquiaro, Saltillo and Mapami) 
199 villages, 75 parishes, 152 farms, 37 missions, 
and 400 cottages. 

Durango, or Guadiana, in 24 deg. 25. N. lat. 
105 deg. 55. W. long, has a population of 12,000. 
It is in the most southern part of the intendancy, 
distant in a straight line from the city of Mexico, 
]70 leagues, and 298 leagues south from Sta. Fe', 
the capital of New Mexico. Although situated so 
near the northern imaginary tropical line, by its 
(6845 feet' elevation above the level of the sea, it 
is subject to frequent falls of snow, and the mer- 
cury in Fahrenheit's thermometer sinks 14 deg. be- 
low freezing point. On the summit of the Frayla, 
a neighboring mountain, is found a crater of an 
extinct volcano, 328 feet in circumference, and more 
than 98 feet of perpendicular depth. On the plain 
near the city was found an en(»rmous mass of mal- 
leable iron and nickel, weighing 4 1,933 lbs. avordu- 
pois, insulated, supposed to be the product of a 
volcanic eruption. 

Chihahua is the residence of the captain general 
©f the internal provinces, and is surrounded with 
considerable mines to the east of the great Reals of 
Cosiguiariachi. It is in 28 deg. 50. N. lat. and 106 
deg. W. long. Population 11,600. 

San Juan del jRio, (there is in the intendancy of 
Mexico another of this name, with which it must 
not be confounded is a town and mining* establish- 
ment, ill 25 d&g, 16. N» Iat« aind 105 deg, 45. W. 



f 30] 

long, and stands S. W. of Lake Parras, with a po- 
pulation of 10,200. 

Nombre de Dios, in N. lat. 24 deg. 5. and W. lat. 

105 deg. 21. is a considerable town on the road from 
the famous mines of Sombrete to Durango, with a 
population of 6,800. 

Papasquiaro^ in N. lat. 24 deg. 35. and W. long. 

106 deg. 59. south of the Rio de Nasas, which 
empties into Lake Cayman, contains 5,600 inhabit- 
ants. 

Saltillo, near the confines of the province of Co- 
hahuil^ and the new kingdom of Leon, on table 
land, descending towards Monclova, the Rio del 
Norte and the province of Texas, is surrounded with 
arid plains, covered only with cactus, and suffers 
much for want of water. It is in N. lat. 25 deg. 51. 
and W. long. 103 deg. 36. 30. and its population 
is 6000. 

Parras, near a lake of the same name and west 
of Saltillo, celebrated for its fine vines, is in N. lat. 
25 deg. 59. 10. and W. long. 104 deg- 52. 20. Po« 
pulation not given. 

Mapimis is a presidio, or military post, east of 
the Sierra de la Cadena, on the uncultivated bor- 
der called Bolson de Mapimi, in 26 deg. 10. N. lat. 
and 105 deg. 59- 30. W. long, with a population of 
2400 inhabitants. 

San Pedro de Batopillas, formerly celebrated for 
its rich mines, is situated to the west of Rio de 
Conchos, in N. lat. 27 deg. 45- and W. long. 108 
deg. 37. 30. with a population of 8000 inhabitants. 

San Jose del Parral, the residence of a diputa- 
cion de Minas, or superintendancy of royal mines, 
has a population of 5000, and is in 27 deg. IQ. N. 
l^at. and 106 deg. 55, W. long. 



[31 ] 

Santa Rosa ae Cosaguiriachi^ surrounded with 
rich silver mines, at the foot of the Sierra de los 
Metates, with a population of 10,700, is in N. lat. 
28 deg. 51. and W. long. 107 deg. 37. 

Giierisamey, very old mines on the road from Du- 
rango to Copala, with a population of 3800 inha- 
bitants, is in N. lat. 24 deg. 12. and W. long. 107 
deg. 2. 00. 

Intendancy of Sonora, with a supposed surface 
of 19,143 square leagues, and a population of 
121,400 inhabitants, averaging only six to the sq. 
league, is bounded on the west by the sea ; on the 
south, by the intendancy of Guadalaxara ; on the 
east, by the uncultivated parts of New Biscay ; and 
on the north, by regions undefined- It extends 
about 280 leagues. onr the gulf of California, or sea 
of Gortez, and is reckoned from 50 to 120 leagues 
in breadth. It comprehends the three provinces of 
Cinaloa, Ostimury, and Sonora proper, or New Na- 
varre. The first extends from the Rio del Rosario 
to the Rio del Fuerte ; the second, from Rio del 
Fuerte to the Rio del Mayo ; and Sonora includes 
all the northern extremities of the intendancy. The 
three most considerable rivers of Sonora, are Cu- 
liacan. Mayo, and Yaqui or Sonora. 

The northern part of Sonora is called Pimeria, 
from a very numerous tribe of Pimas Indians pro- 
fessing the Roman Catholic religion, under the tu- 
telage of the missionary monks. It is sub-divided 
into the Pimeria Alta, and the Pimeria Buxa ; the 
latter contains the presidio, or military post of Bue- 
navista. The former extends from the presidio^ or 
mihtary post of Ternate, to the Rio Gila, and is the 
Choco of North America. The ravines and plains 
of this part contam gold scattered up and down the 



C 32 J 

alluvious ground, pepitas^ or pieces of which have 
h^tn found pure, of more than from five to eight 
pounds iToy weight. The want of population and 
high price of provisions, and the frequent incur- 
sions of Indians, prevent these caraderos being 
sought after. Farther north, on the right bank af 
Ascension river, Hve the Seris, a warhke tribe. 

On the south bank of the Rio Gila, in 1773, was 
discovered the ruins of an antient Aztec city, sup- 
posed to be the second residence of the race of Az- 
tec kings, prior to their migration to the Mexican 
territory. It is situated in N. lat. 33 deg- 31. anS 
W. long. 113 deg. 5- These ruins occupy a space 
of more than a square league, in the centre of which 
is the Casa Grande^ laid down exactly to the four 
cardinal points, being from N. to S. 445 feet long^ 
and from E. to W- 276 feet, constructed of clay. 
The pises (casement in which the clay is rammed 
down) are of an unequal size, but symmetrically 
placed. The walls are 3 feet 1 1 mches thick- The 
building appears to have been three stories high, 
with a terrace, and stair on the outside, and divid- 
ed into five apartments, each of which is little vaott 
than 27 feet long, 10 in breadth, and 3 in height. 
The vestiges of an artificial canal, which served 
to conduct the waters of the Rio Gila to the town, 
were also discovered. The Casa Grande was sur- 
rounded by a wail, interspersed with large towers, 
which served to defend it- The whole surround- 
ing plain is covered with broken earthen pots and 
pitchers, neatly painted in white, blue and red. — ■ 
Amidst these fragments are also found stone ware 
pieces of Mexican obsidian (itzli.) These various 
specimens of Indian antiquuy, discovered progres- 
sively from the north to the south, seem to indicate 



i is J 

a state of civilization long before Columbus's dis- 
covery among the ancient inhabitants of America, 
and go far in presumptive evidence of their Asiatic 
origin. The Indians south of the Rio Gila, have 
never had any intercourse or communication with 
iJie Spanish inhabitants of Sonora, and live in a so- 
cial state of civilization, to the number of two ov 
three thousand, in two villages called Uturicut and 
Satataquisin, are clothed, and cultivate peaceably the 
soil. The missionaries who visited them in 1773, 
saw fields sown with cotton, maize and gourds, form- 
ing a striking contrast to those fierce and wander- 
ing tribes termed by the Spaniards, Indios bravos^ 
or savages. The one shewed them the picture of a 
stftner burning in hell flames, which terrified them, 
and they entreated him not to mention it any more, 
and not to speak to them of what would happen 
after death. They are of a peaceable and sincere 
deportment. The other, by an interpreter, explain- 
ed to them the security which existed in the Christi- 
an mission, where an Indian Alcalde administered 
justice— To which the chief of Uturicut replied, 
" This order of things may be necessary for you. 
W^e do not steal, and very seldom disagree ; what 
wse have we then for an alcalde among us ?" 

The province of Sonora has one city, (Arispe) 
two towns, (Sonora and Hostimuri) — 46 villages, ik 
parishes, 43 missions, 25 farms, and 25 cottages. 

The province of Cinaloa contains five towns, 
(Culiacan, Cinaloa, el Rosario, el Fuerte, and los 
Alamos) — 92 villages, 30 parishes, 14 farms^ and 
450 cottagesi 

The most remarkable places in the intendancy 
?»f Sonora, are, 

Arispe^ the capital of the intendancy y has a pO" 

E 



[34] 

pulation of 7,600. Here the intendant resides. It 
is in 30 deg. 36. N. lat. and 111 deg. 1 1. 30. W. long. 

Sonora^ in N. lat. 30 deg. 5. and W. long. Ill 
deg. 15. has a population of 6,500. 

Hostimiiri, a. small but well peopled town, sur- 
rounded with mines; population not given — Lat. 
28 deg. 45. long. Ill deg. 35. 

Culiacan has a population of 10,800, known in 
the history of Mexico by the celebrated name of 
Hueicolhuacan, is in.N. lat. 24 deg. 55. and W. 
long. 10":) deg. 

; Chialoa, or Filla de San Felipe T Santiago, east 
from the port of Sta. Maria d'Aome on the gulf of 
California, called by the Spaniards the Sea of Cortez, 
has a population of 9,500 inhabitants, and is in N. 
lat. 25 deg. 59. and W. long. 110 deg. 15. 

El Rosario, near the rich mines of Copala, in 
N. lat 23 deg. 30. and W. long. 108 deg. 26. has 
5,600 inhabitants. 

Filla de Fuerte, or Montesclaros, in lat. 26 deg. 
50. long. 110 deg. 31. 30. has 7,900 inhabitants. 

Los Alamos, a seat of the provincial council of 
the mines, called diputacion de Mineria, between 
the Rio del Fuerte and Rio Mayo, has a population 
of 7,9oo, and is in lat. 27 deg. 8. and long. Ill deg. 
23.30. 

Province of New Mexico has a surface of 5,7o9 
square leagues, and 4o,2oo inhabitants, averaging 
seven to the square league. It is very thinly set- 
tled, and supposed destitute of metallic wealth, but 
generally of a fertile soil, extending along the Ria 
del Norte from the 31st deg. to the 38th deg. of N. 
latitude, 175 leagues in length and from 3o to 5o in 
breadth. This province is separated from that of 
Kew Biscay by a desert of the Muerto, an arid 
plain, about thirty leagues in length, generally des>- 



r 35 ] 

titute of water. Here the traveller is liable to as- 
sassination, as well as in the defile of Robledo, by 
wandering Indians. The mountains de Los Mansos, 
do not give rise to a single brook, which gives the 
country contiguous an alarming appearance of aridi- 
ty. In this province, although in a parallel with 
Georgia, the Carolinas and Virginia, it freezes un- 
til the middle of May. The Rio del Norte near 
Sta. Fe', and to the north, sometimes for a succes- 
sion of years, is so frozen, that the ice will admit 
the passage of horses and carriages The moun- 
tains which bound the Rio del Norte and those at 
the foot of which the village of Taos is situated, 
lose their snow only in the beginning of June. 

The Rio del Norte, or Great River of the North, 
rises in the Sierra Verde, which is the dividing 
chain between the waters flowing into the Pacific 
and Atlantic oceans, a few minutes north of the 4oth, 
and empties into the Mexican Gulf a few minutes 
south of 26 deg. N. lat-^Like the Missisippi, Oron- 
oco and the Nile, it has its annual overflowings. 
They begin to swell in April, have their greatest 
height in May, and fall in June. The waters of 
this river are very muddy. The bed of this river 
for several leagues above and below the Passo del 
Norte, in the year 1752, became suddenly dry, the 
water being engulphed in a newly formed chasm, 
and did not re-appear until it reached the military 
station of San Eleazario. It remained so for a con- 
siderable time; the plains surrounding the Passo, 
intersected with irrigating canals, were without wa- 
ter, and the inhabitants dug wells in the sand, with 
w^hichthe bed of the river was filled- After seve-f 
ral weeks the water resumed its wonted course, be- 
cause its subterraneous conductor was supposed to 
have filled up. The colonists of this province live 



£36 J 

in. perpetual warfare with the Indians. This inse- 
security renders the towns well peopled, and the 
country so much of a desert- A most singular kind 
of trade is carried on by the Indians of the Bolson 
de Mapimi and the inhabitants between Chihuahua 
and Sta. Fe'. The savages plant along this road, 
small crosses, to which they suspend a leathern 
pocket containing a piece of stag flesh. At the foot 
of the cross a buffaloe hide is stretched out. The 
Indian indicates by this, that he wishes to trade 
with the followers of the cross, and offers the Chris- 
tian traveller a hide for provisions. The soldiers 
of the military station, or presidio, take away the 
buffaloe hide, and leave some salted provision, 
which js again taken away by the natives of the fo- 
rest. This concludes the bargain. 

The Indians west of the Rio del Norte, between 
the rivers Gila and Colorado, seem to live in a much 
more civilized state than the wandering tribes of 
the desert' One of the latest missionaries visited 
in the year 1773, the country of the Moqui, water- 
ed by the Rio de Yaquesila, and found a well peopled 
Indian town, with two great squares, houses of se- 
veral stories, and streets well laid out parallel to 
each other- The houses were terrace-roofed, on 
which the people every evening assembled- The 
eonstruction of the ediftces of the Moqui are the 
same as the Casas Grandes on the banks of the Rio 
Gila. This circumstance tends to weaken the be- 
lieved antiquity of the ruins of the city discovered 
on the banks of the Rio Gila and those of New 
Biscay. The Yahipais Indians wear long beards. 
The Moqui territory had once been considered a 
Spanish province, but in a revolt of the Indians in 
1680, all the missionaries were put to de^th, since 



C 37] 

when it has remained in the peaceable possession 
of its aboriginal inhabitants. 

This province contains three towns (Sta. Fe', Sta. 
Cruz de la Canada y Taos, and Albuquerque y 
Alameda,^ 26 villages, 13 missions, 3 parishes, and 
not a solitary farm. 

Santa Fe', the capital, is in N. lat 36 deg- 12. 
W. long. 107 deg. 13. with a population of 3,600 
inhabitants, east of the Rio del Norte. 

Albuquerque^ west of the Sierra Obscura and op- 
posite the village of Atrisco, has 6000 inhabitants* 
N. lat. 35 deg. 37. 30. and W- long. 107 deg. 37. 30- 

Taos has 8,900 inhabitants, and stands in 37 deg. 
4. N. lat. and 106 deg. 51. 

Passo del Norte is a military post, or presidio^ on 
the west bank of the Rio del Norte, in 32 deg. 9. 
N. and lo7 deg- 3. W. long, between which and 
Sta. Fe*, is an uncultivated country of more than 
6o leagues in length. Here the travellers lay in 
provisions who are bound from the south to Sta. 
Fe'. The environs of this pass are highly culti- 
vated with maize, wheat, &c. The vineyards pro- 
duce an excellent sweet wine, and the gardens pro- 
duce figs, pears, peaches and apples. The coun- 
try around the Passo, which is dry, is irrigated by 
a canal, which by a dam, is filled with the waters of 
the Rio del Norte. This dam is swept away every 
year, and is rebuilt by the inhabitants. 

Province of Old California comprises a surface of 
7,295 square leagues, and a population of 9,ooo in- 
habitants, averaging one to the square league.-.- 
This province, although so thinly settled, was first 
discovered by Cortez. It is a peninsula, which equals 
England in extent of territory, is an arid country, 
with a serene and cloudless sky and sandy soil, and 
very little rain. It is iniersected in the middle by 



[ 38 ] 

a chain of mountains, the highest of which, the 
Sierra de la Giganta, is from 4,600 to 5,000 feet 
high, apparently of volcanic origin. These moun- 
tains are inhabited by an animal, imperfectly describ- 
ed, but called by the Spaniards, Wild Sheep. There 
are few springs in this province, and those few are 
mostly found where the rocks are bare, but more 
generally where the rock is covered with vegetable 
earth. 

The great want of water will never admit of this 
being a well peopled country. Immense, however, 
is the fertility of the soil where springs and earth 
happen to meet together. California is mostly ce- 
lebrated for its pearl fisheries, now nearly aban- 
doned for want of divers. The Indians of this 
country are in a complete state of nudity, and have 
a great aversion to clothing, which they regard 
with horror. The population of this province, from 
various causes, has been long on the decline, the 
number of the conquered Indians not exceeding 
4000. 

Here are but three villages, Loretto, a military 
post and residence of all the missions ; Sta. Anna, 
a mission and royal mine ; and San Joseph, amission. 

Intendancy of New California has a surface of 
4.25 square leagues, and 115,600 inhabitants, aver- 
aging 7 to the square league. In its present state, it 
is 197 leagues long, and from 9 to 10 leagues broad. 
The post of Monterey, the chief place of the mis- 
sions in New California, is equi-distant in a straight 
line from the cities of Mexico and Philadelphia. 
There is a letter post, which goes from the port 
of San Diego, along the north west coast, to San 
Francisco, the most northern establishment in the 
province, and 3oo leagues nearly due west of TaoSy 
■'\ Ne\Y Mexico; from which, however, it has no 



L 39 ] 

direct land communication, having no road between 
them. The soil of Nev/ California is well watered 
and fertile, country very picturesque, and climate 
much milder than the same latitudes on the Ame- 
rican Atlantic coast. The sky is foggy — The fre- 
quent fogs give vigor to vegetation and fertilize 
the soil, which is covered with a black and spongy 
earth. In the existing missions in this province, 
wheat, maize and haricots grow in abundance ; also 
beans, barley, lentiles and garbanzos. The greater 
part of the roots and fruit trees of Old Spain have 
been introduced into the Indian gardens with suc- 
cess. Good wine is made in all the villages along the 
coast to the north of the 37 th degree of N. lat. — 
The European olive is also cultivated, from which 
an excellent oil is made. Cold north and north 
west winds sometimes blov/ impetuously along the 
coast, which prevent the fruits from ripening. This 
is not the case in places sheltered by the mountain- 
ous ridges. This province has increased in popu- 
lation more rapidly than all the other missions in 
New Spain. In 1776, there v/ere only eight vil- 
lages ; in 1790, eleven; in 1802, eighteen. In 1790, 
the population of the province, Spaniards and In - 
drans who cultivated the soil, 7748 ; in 1800, 13,668;. 
and in 1802, 15,562. From 1769 to 1802, there 
were 33,717 baptisms, including Indians, 8009 
marriages, and 16,984 deaths, according to the pa- 
rish registers. In 1791, the Indians sowed 874 
fanegas of wheat, which yielded a harvest of 15,197 
fanegas ; in 1802, they sowed 2089 fanegas, v/hich 
yielded 33,576 fanegas. In 1791, there were only 
24,958 head of black cattle ; in 1802, the live stock 
was 67,782 beeves; 107,172 sheep ; 1040 hogs; 
2187 horses, and 877 mules. 



C 40 ] 

The northern part of the province is inhabited 
by two natrons of Indians, the Rumsen and the 
Escelen, who speak two languages distinct from 
each other. They form the population of the pre- 
sidio and village of Monterey. The Matalans, Sal- 
sens and Quirotes inhabit along the bay of St- Fran- 
cisco, and speak languages apparently derived from 
one common root. In 180 leagues along the coast 
of this province, there are no less than seventeen 
languages spoken by different tribes of Indians.— 
This province is particularly under the government 
of the missionary clergy, to whom the military ar<s 
subject. The soldiery arc not permitted to reside 
out of their barracks, and the monks are averse to 
the increase of a white population, so much less 
tractable than the Indian. The Rumsen and Es- 
celen Indians use what may be called the vapour 
bath. To each dwelling is attached a kind of oven, 
into which the Indian, after returning from labor^ 
gets, and remains for a quarter of an hout, the 
oven having been previously heated and fire extin- 
guished. He comes out in full perspiration, plunges 
into cold water, or wallows about in the sand, which 
strangely agitates him with the most agreeable sen 
sations. 

The Indians of this province have for years been 
engaged in spinning coarse woollens, c?\\td frisidas^; 
but their principal occupation is dressing stag skins- 
The stag dwells in the mountains principally be- 
tween San Diego and Monterey, or in the forests 
and plains, where they are found in large flocks, o£ 
gigantic size. Their antlers or horns are some- 
times 4 1-2 feet long. The berendos, or wild sheep, 
with small chamois horns, browse on the moun- 
tains. Neither the elk nor bu£Ealo is fo^^nd here. 



C 41 3 

The missions of the province run from south to 
north, in the following order : 

San Diego, (part of) founded in 1769, popula- 
tion in 1812, 1560 ; situated in N. lat. 32 deg. 39. 
30. and W. long. 119 deg. 38. 15. 

St. Luis Rey de Francia, a village founded in 
1798, has 600 inhabitants. 

San Juan de Capistrano, founded in 1776, has 
1000 — N. lat. 33 deg. 29. W. long. ]26 deg. 13. 30. 

San Gabriel, founded in 1771, has 1050 inha- 
bitants. 

San Fernando, founded in 1797, 600 inhabitants. 

Santa Buenaventura, founded in 1782, is in N. 
lat. 34 deg.. 17. W. long. 121 deg. 45. 30. and has 
950 inhabitants. 

Santa Barbara, founded in 1786, has 1100 in- 
habitants. 

La Purissima Conception, founded in 1787, has 
1000 inhabitants. 

San Luis Obispo, founded in 1772, has 700. 

San Miguel founded in 1797, has 600. 

San Antonio de Padua, founded in 1771, has 
1050 inhabitants. 

San Carlos de Monterey, the capital of the pro- 
vince, is situated at the foot of the Cordillera of Sta. 
Lucia, founded in 1770, two leagues distant from 
the presidio of the same name, which is in N. lat. 
36 deg. 36. W, long. 124 deg. 118. 

San Juan Bautista, founded in 1797, N- lat 33 
deg. 29. W. long. 120 deg. I3. 30. has 960. 

Santa Cruz, founded in 1794, has 440. 

Santa Clara, founded in 1777, has 1300. 

San Jose, founded in 1797, has 630. 

The port and village of St. Francisco, founded 
in 1776, in N- lat. 37 deg. 48. 30. W. long. 134 deg. 
57. its population is 120. 



District of Maryland, To xvit, 
.IBE it remembered, that on this nineteenth day of October, 
in the thirty eighth year of the independence of the 
{L.S.I United States of America, John Wane and Joseph C. 
O^Reilly, of the said district, have deposited in this 
office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as pro- 
prietors, in the words following, to wit : 

^' An Abridgment of Humboldt's Statistical Essay on 
^* New Spain ; being a Geographical, Philosophical and Poll- 
" tical Account of the Kingdom of iMexico, or the Vice- 
" Royalty of Mexico and the internal Provinces subject to 
^^ the Commandant or Governor General residing at Chihua- 
'* huar^Bya Citizen of Maryland,'*^ 

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the U, States, 
entitled *' An act for the encouragement of learning, by se- 
curing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books to the authors 
and proprietors of such copies during the times therein 
mentioned: — And also to the act, entitled '* An act supple- 
mentary to the act, entitled " An act for the encouragement 
of learning, by securing.the copies of Maps, Charts and Books 
to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times 
therein mentioned" — and ex ending the benefit thereof to the 
attspf 4f«iigning, engraving, and etching historical and other 

PHILIP MOORE, Clerk of the 
District of Maryland. 



